From Mine to Menu: How James Beard Chef Paul Smith Elevates Hernshaw Farms Mushrooms into Culinary Art

In the foothills of West Virginia, something remarkable is happening underground — and on the plates of some of the region’s most celebrated restaurants. Beneath Paint Creek Mountain, in the cool, steady air of the historic Memorial Tunnel along the West Virginia Turnpike, Hernshaw Farms cultivates gourmet mushrooms that are redefining Appalachian cuisine.

Aboveground, in Charleston’s thriving culinary scene, Chef Paul Smith — the state’s first James Beard Award finalist — is transforming those same mushrooms into edible works of art.

The Meeting of Two Appalachian Visions

Hernshaw Farms was founded with a mission to turn former coal infrastructure into regenerative agriculture. What began as a handful of experimental blocks has grown into a thriving local enterprise that produces Lion’s Mane, Reishi, Chestnut, Oyster, and Black Pearl King Oysters, all cultivated in the Memorial Tunnel’s stable underground climate.

When Chef Paul Smith first encountered Hernshaw Farms’ mushrooms, it wasn’t just another farm-to-table connection — it was an alignment of philosophy. Both Smith and the Hernshaw team share a deep love of Appalachia and a belief that the land, and the people, deserve to thrive again.

“West Virginia has everything it needs right here,” Smith often says. “It’s our job to elevate it, to show the world what’s possible when you cook with heart — and when you know the hands that grew it.”

A James Beard Chef with Appalachian Roots

A Charleston native and culinary educator, Chef Paul Smith has become the face of West Virginia’s food renaissance. His restaurants — including 1010 Bridge, Ellen’s Ice Cream Kitchen, and The Pitch — blend fine-dining precision with mountain hospitality. In 2023, he was named a James Beard Foundation finalist for Best Chef: Southeast, cementing his reputation as a chef who honors local ingredients while cooking with global technique.

That’s where Hernshaw Farms comes in. At 1010 Bridge, Smith features Hernshaw Farms’ mushrooms in everything from small plates to entrees, emphasizing their texture and umami depth. The Lion’s Mane becomes a crab-cake-like centerpiece, seared golden and finished with beurre blanc. Oysters and Black Pearls are caramelized in cast iron with thyme and shallots, transforming into vegan “steak” medallions that fool even the most committed carnivores.

“My favorite vegetable is mushrooms, and at 1010 Bridge we have a cocktail called the Cordycep made from Hernshaw Farms mushrooms, which are grown in storage containers on former strip mines.”
– Chef Paul Smith, in Atlanta Magazine

From Coal Tunnels to Culinary Tables

Inside the Memorial Tunnel, Hernshaw Farms cultivates mushrooms under perfect conditions — a constant 60°F, gentle humidity, and filtered airflow. Each block of substrate is packed with hardwood sawdust, grain, and Appalachian grit. The result? Mushrooms of unmatched density and flavor.

That same consistency is why Chef Smith continues to feature Hernshaw Farms across his menus. The texture of a freshly harvested Lion’s Mane or Black Pearl King Oyster allows him to smoke, grill, or braise them just like traditional proteins.

“Mushrooms have terroir, just like wine,” he explains. “When they’re grown in these hills, you can taste West Virginia in every bite.”

A Partnership Rooted in Regeneration

For Hernshaw Farms, the relationship goes far beyond distribution. It’s about proving that West Virginia’s future doesn’t have to look like its past. Each mushroom grown in the West Virginia Turnpike Memorial Tunnel supports local jobs, regenerative soil projects, and the reclamation of former mine lands — using spent mushroom substrate to restore topsoil and plant new life.

Chef Smith’s partnership amplifies that mission. By serving Hernshaw Farms mushrooms to locals and travelers alike, he’s turning every plate into a conversation about sustainability, Appalachian pride, and the potential of innovation born from hard work.

On the Menu and in the Movement

• Lion’s Mane “Crab” Cakes — golden brown, hand-shaped, and sweetly oceanic.
• Black Pearl King Oyster Steak Bites — smoky, meaty, finished with miso-butter.
• Cordycep Cocktail — a one-of-a-kind drink infused with Hernshaw mushrooms.
• Wild Mushroom Risotto — creamy, woodsy, finished with Appalachian truffle oil.

Every dish is a love letter to West Virginia.

Why It Matters

In an era where “local sourcing” often feels like a buzzword, this partnership is the real thing. It’s a closed-loop story of reclamation:

• Coal infrastructure turned to agriculture
• Mushrooms turned to meals
• Waste turned to soil
• Land turned to life again

Chef Paul Smith and Hernshaw Farms are proof that West Virginia doesn’t need to import excellence — it’s already growing it right here, deep in the mountains.

Or make a reservation at 1010 Bridge Restaurant in Charleston, WV, and taste Appalachian innovation at its finest. Together, they’re not just redefining farm-to-table — they’re turning coal country into food country.